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I recommend you schedule a visit with a veterinarian of your choice within
the 14-day trial period in order to establish your kitten as a client and
confirm his/her health. A Rabies vaccine will most likely be administered by
your veterinarian on your first visit.
Your kitten has been thoroughly examined and immunized by a registered cats-only
veterinarian and you will be provided with the actual records to turn over to
your veterinarian.
Many veterinarians recommend testing a new kitten for Feline Leukemia, as well
as FIV/FIP. You can let your vet know that while I do not test or immunize my
kittens for Feline Leukemia, ALL adult cats in my residence are immunized
against Feline Leukemia annually (plus Rabies and distemper boosters). My stud
cats are additionally immunized for FIP. No cat is permitted outdoors, any new
cats that enter the cattery are tested prior to any exposure.
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Dry Food: Your kitten is fed a diet of Eukanauba and/or Iams dry kitten food.
Dry food is available to kittens at all times. I believe kittens/cats are best
left to “free feed.” The reason? When a cat eats more than a little food, their
system tends to turn alkaline, whereas eating in small amounts doesn't cause an
"Alkaline Wave" in the metabolism. It is recommended that they maintain a kitten
food diet for a period of 8 -12 months, if possible. I realize this is not
always possible, especially in multi-cat households where the established
residents are on adult food (in which case you’ll find your kitten will
gravitate to the adult food and there’s not too much you can do about it!).
Water: Lots of it! Keep it clean and fresh (i.e., replace daily). Don’t be
surprised to find your kitten has a preference for drinking out of a glass
placed near the kitchen or bathroom sink – it seems to be their favorite place
to quench their thirst!
Wet Food: Avoid it! The large majority of canned foods cause diarrhea/vomiting,
so if you insist, be careful of what you feed them and how often.
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Your kitten uses Feline Pine or PetSmart’s generic version, Exquisite Cat.
This is an all natural pine pellet litter that I can’t say enough great things
about! There are a few additional brands out there, depending on where you live.
Litter pan liners and deodorizers are not necessary (and can actually cause a
lapse in litter box etiquette).
It is IMPORTANT TO MAINTAIN THE SAME LITTER; at least for a few weeks time. If
other household cats use different products, the new kitten may opt to share
(just don’t force the issue!). If the resident cat agrees, that’s fine,
otherwise, allow one box for each cat in the household.
NOTE: Please DO NOT USE scoopable litters with kittens (even the manufacturer
recommends against it!) They have been known to cause a variety of serious
problems.
Litter box. Chose a quiet place away from household traffic and noise. The box
should be small to mid-size for the next few months. If you have several floors
in your home and your kitten has the run of the house, you might want to
consider adding a second box on another floor.
Do not place food in close proximity to the litter box! Moving the box to
different locations on your kitten is an invitation for “accidents!” If you must
move it, do so gradually (a few inches at a time). Otherwise, don’t be surprised
to find the former location soiled.
NOTE: I recommend that you allow litter box habits to be firmly entrenched prior
to allowing your kitten to be far from their litter box overnight. If you intend
to have your kitten sleep in bed with you, do make sure a litter box is close
by. Keep in mind, they’re like toddlers; once they get nice and warm and comfy
in bed, it’s far easier to pee-pee (or worse!) a short distance away (which is
usually on your bedding!).
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It is always best to initially keep your kitten confined to a small area (1
–3 days). This includes food, water, and their litter box. As they become
confident with their new surroundings you can gradually let them explore and
expand their territory. Make sure they have plenty of attention!!
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If additional pets are in residence, it is critically important to provide a
secure, confined, comfortable area for your new kitten. This includes food,
water, and their own litter box. The established cats/dogs will be curious and
most likely attempt to visit. Let this occur gradually! It is RARE for
established cats to instantly accept a newcomer! (Dogs are generally far more
accepting of cats!) Forcing the issue may cause unwanted behavior (spraying,
fighting, etc.) particularly from the established cat(s). This process may take
anywhere from a few days to 2 weeks. Please… do not rush them!
Favorites include feather teasers, “fishing” poles, fur covered mice, pipe
cleaner toys (“Mr. Bee”) and most types of balls. A word of caution about
feather teasers and fishing poles… your kitten is a natural acrobat, but don’t
push him/her to jump too high. They can easily injure themselves and cause
long-term problems (pulled muscles, tendons, arthritis, lameness, etc.). Keep
them low to the ground! Also, do not leave feather toys out – your kitten will
“pluck” the feathers and might choke!
Strings, rubber bands, etc. must be avoided! They can kill your kitten if
ingested by wrapping around their intestines. Another thing to watch for is wool
sucking (also stuffed animals!). Siamese/Oriental breeds are notorious for this!
Their intestines become blocked and/or string can become wrapped around vital
organs. They can die if you’re not quick to notice the signs (lethargy, loss of
appetite, propensity for hiding). I am aware of three instances where surgery
(at a cost of up to $1500!) was required to save the kitten and in one instance
the kitten had to be euthanized. Please don’t let this happen!
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If your kitten or cat is showing signs of illness, it’s critical that you see
a veterinarian as soon as possible! Do not delay! Kittens can dehydrate and die
very quickly and may require fluid injections. Try to provide your vet with as
much detailed info as possible (i.e, their behavior, consistency/frequency/color
of vomit and/or diarrhea… I know this sounds gross, but it will help your vet to
diagnose the problem!).
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If there's one thing I do see - especially with Siamese - it's allergies.
Like people, you may find your cat develops sensitivities to certain foods. This
can manifest as skin problems such as itching and hair loss, or vomiting,
diarrhea, constipation, etc. This is another reason why their diet should be
kept fairly consistent. It will be far easier to pinpoint the offending product!
One food ingredient that often is a trigger for allergies is FISH MEAL.
Some kittens/cats can develop respiratory allergies to fragrances, carpet
deodorizers, and many types of cat litter products. Try to limit your kitten’s
exposure to these products if possible. You might also be surprised to learn
that cats can suffer from pollen and mold allergies!
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